Repairing a hole in drywall

Some people call it wallboard,sheetrock,drywall. If you have a hole in your wall,you can repair it several ways. Some hardware stores or lumber yards, do carry a patch that may fit your hole,or you can take a utility knife,drywall knife and cut the hole to fit your patch. These patches have about a inch or so of paper that is on the outside of the patch.After you have your hole the size of the patch, you take some drywall compound and place on the edges of the paper and then place the patch over the hole,once even with the existing wall, you then apply a layer of drywall compound over the patch, getting it as smooth as you can. Let it dry and then lightly sand to see if it needs another coat of drywall compound,if not its ready to prime and paint. Other ways of patching a hole if no patch is found, is to cut out sheetrock to halfway into a stud in your wall, on both sides of the hole. You then would cut a piece of sheetrock and nail it to the studs on both sides and then, tape your joints with sheetrock tape,apply coats of drywall compound, maybe couple of coats is needed. Let dry and paint.

Checking and Caulking Windows

Spring is going to be here one of these days. It would be a good time to check your windows and outside doors for gaps in caulk around windows and doors. A good way to check to see if you have air coming in around you windows is to take a candle and hold it around where the inside edge of the window or door,of course it could be coming from old windows, if there is a gap or leak the candle will flicker, just dont catch your curtains on fire and burn your house down. Go on the outside of the house and check and see if the caulking is cracked or has missing caulk. If there is missing or cracked caulk, you will need to take out the old caulking,and replace it with new.They do make a caulk softner that is applied a couple of hours before you dig out the old caulking, I use a putty knife and sometimes even a screwdriver. It is better to use a silicone caulking, it doesnt shrink or dry out as much as a latex. You will need a caulking gun for your caulking in a tube. Cut the end off at a 45 degree angle and run a slow smooth bead around your window.Let dry for 12 hours or so. A person can save money by not letting that cold air in around your windows and doors.

Water Shut Off's

When I go to work on anything to do with plumbing,I always ask tenant if they know where the water shut off is in the house.Water can cause alot of damage especially if you have a multi level house. About the only place for water to go is to follow the lowest place in the house, so if you have a two level house and the leak is in the top floor bathroom, the water will for sure run into the bottom floor.So if you discover a leak, you need to know where the water shut off to house is. I also mention to home owners that it makes it alot easier to work on if toilet stools,sinks etc. have shut offs on them so if the leak is at that one place, you dont need to turn the water off to the entire house, and if say the kitchen faucet needs replaced, you can turn the water off to the faucet. Here is a picture of where I installed shut offs to a kitchen faucet.

Fire Damage

Several months ago I was making some fire starters to use to start fires in my wood stove. I would take egg cartons and fill them up with saw dust then pour hot wax over the saw dust and then let them cool. They make great fire starters. One day I was using a glass pan to melt the wax over the stove, I had done this for years. That day I put the wax on the fire and went into the computer room and was checking my facebook page and other places. I smelled something burning and ran into the kitchen, I had forgotten about the wax, the pan was on fire and I never thought and went over to the sink and turned on the water, it was like putting water on a oil fire, the flames came up the front of me, and burned the hair on my arms,the fire had caught the curtains on fire and my kitchen cabinets on fire, I took a blanket I had near the washing machine and throwed it over the fire and put it out. I had a fire exstinguisher just feet away but didnt think about it. The picture is the damage and the other picture is after repairs. I had to repaint the walls and ceiling. My mom said did you call the fire department and my answer was I thought it wasnt that bad, that is how people get burned up in fires.

You ever see this somewhere in or on your house?

Places you may find wet rot: Wet rot grows on porous surfaces such as timber where there is moisture content of at least 50%. Wet rot can often lead to major structural damage if it is left to grow unchecked as it can weaken timber. Moisture content this high often is a result of defective plumbing, gutters, downpipes or stone pointing. If you spot a defective pipe then it is worth checking out your property to ensure there are no signs of growth. Fortunately, wet rot does not spread through masonry and the growth of wet rot will cease when the moisture is removed. Places you may find dry rot: Although the name dry rot suggests that no moisture is required for it to form dry rot actually requires moisture content of around 20%. A major, and important, difference between dry rot and wet rot is that dry rot will often occur in areas of the property that cannot be seen. This can lead to significant damage before the problem has been identified. These areas are often attics or underfloor areas that have poor ventilation and therefore a higher-than-normal moisture content. If you have condensation on your windows it could be an early warning sign of dry rot. DIFFERENCE IN APPEARENCE

Wet rot identification Look out for black fungus growing on timber. It will feel soft and spongy and likely darker than surrounding timber. If it has dried out it will easily crack and crumble into fine pieces.

Dry rot identification The timber will be brown in colour and will easily crumble in your hand. There could be silky white sheets. There could be a 'fruiting body' growing on the timber.

In with the new and out with the old

On January 1, 2012 a law phasing out standard 100-watt incandescent bulbs went into effect. However, it won't be the bulb apocalypse that some detractors have been warning of. In short: the notion that incandescent bulbs will no longer be available is a myth. Nor will you be forced to buy Compact Fluroescent Lightbulbs (CFLs). "You will still be able to buy incandescents, "The only difference being that the new and improved ones are more efficient." The new incandescent bulbs operate and look just like the old-fashioned bulbs that you are used to-they have the same shape and base design. And, according to Horowitz, most people won't notice any difference in the color or quality of light. What is different is that they have an improved filament design, which makes them 28% more efficient as the law requires. So, when you are bulb shopping for replacements for your old 100-watt incandescents, look for new ones labeled "72-watt soft white." Sylvania, Philips, and GE all make similar versions. The Federal Trade Commission has revised its labeling requirements for most light bulb packages, which might initially cause some confusion. All new bulbs will be labeled prominently with lumens in addition to watts. Watts measure power used, lumens measure the amount of light emitted. Since CFLs, LEDs and other types of bulbs vary in wattage, the most accurate way to look for new efficient bulbs that give off the same amount of light you are used to and prefer is by lumens. The approximate equivalents for old standard incandescents are: 40 watts=450 lumens 60 watts = 800 lumens 75 watts = 1100 lumens 100 watts= 1600 lumens The new light bulbs do cost more, but will save you money over their lifetime. On average, a new incandescent bulb will cost $1 to $2 compared to 25 cents. That may seem like a big jump, but the NRDC estimates that you will actually save $3 to $3.50 over the life of each bulb--which means they pay for themselves. The average homeowner using all efficient lighting will save $100 to 200 per year on energy costs. That adds up to a savings of $13 billion per year in the United States. New bulbs also reduce pollution. Upgrading our nation's lighting will cut the need for 30 large power plants and reduce carbon pollution by the same amount as taking 17 million cars off the road. New incandescent bulbs aren't your only option. All major retailers, such as Home Depot, Lowe's, and Target, sell a range of bulbs that meet the new energy standards including the improved incandescents, CFLs, and LEDs. Compact fluorescent bulbs are the cheapest, while LEDs are the most expensive but last for as long as 25 years. Here are some more shopping tips from Horowitz: 1. Look for "warm white" CFLs and LEDs. Most people prefer "warm white" over those marketed as "cool white" or "day light." The Environmental Protection Agency offers detailed information on buying the right CFLs for your needs 2. Not all new bulbs are dimmable. If you are replacing a bulb that was in a dimming circuit, make sure to buy a new incandescent or a CFL bulb specifically labeled dimmable. 3. Not all new bulbs are created equal. To ensure you are getting the highest quality product, choose bulbs with the Energy Star label, which meet strict performance requirements. 4. Dispose of bulbs properly. You can throw incandescents and LEDs in the trash. To dispose of CFLs, which contain a very small amount of mercury (less than what's in a can of tuna), place them in a plastic ziploc bag and bring to a Lowes's, Home Depot, or IKEA for free recycling. The NRDC has a simple light bulb buying guide you can print and bring to the store. Old incandescents will not be taken off store shelves on January 1, but phased out as they are sold off. The old 75-watt incandescent bulbs will be phased out in 2013 and the 60 and 40-watt bulbs in 2014. "Without the law, we'd still be stuck with the 125-year-old technology that was so inefficient 90% of the electricity used was wasted as heat." "The standards remain fully intact and manufacturers and retailers are proceeding full speed ahead in their transition to energy saving light bulbs. At most, this is a mere speed bump along the way."

Smoke Detectors

Smoke alarms have been around since the 60’s. When a fire breaks out, the smoke alarm, functions as an early warning system thus reducing the risk of dying by nearly 50 percent. Alarms are most people’s first line of defense against fire. Just as dangerous as having no smoke alarms, is having ones that don’t work because of lack of maintenance, no power or from being too old. What Kind Should I Buy? There are two types of smoke alarms available today: photoelectric and ionization. Photoelectric: • When smoke enters a photoelectric alarm, light from a pulsating light source is reflected off the smoke particles onto a light sensor, triggering the alarm. • Photoelectric smoke alarms generally respond faster to smoldering smoke conditions Ionization: • When smoke enters an ionization alarm, ionized air molecules attach to the smoke particles and reduce the ionizing current, triggering the alarm. • Ionization smoke alarms generally respond faster to flaming fire conditions Both types provide adequate protection against fire. Both consistently provide time for occupants to escape from most residential fires, yet often the escape time is short. Fire researchers believe our time to escape from fires since 30 years ago is shortened. This can be related to faster fire development with today’s products that provide the main fuel sources for fire, such as upholstered furniture and mattresses. How Many Smoke Alarms Do I Need and In What Rooms? The number depends on two things, the number of levels in the home and the number of bedrooms. Areas to install smoke alarms: • In the bedroom to warn of a fire while sleeping (bedroom door should be closed to act as a fire barrier). • In the hallway outside the bedroom areas to alert sleeping occupants on that level. • Each level of the home. Where In the Room Do I Install Them? Since smoke and deadly gases rise, alarms should be placed on the ceiling at least 4 inches from the nearest wall, or high on a wall, 4-12 inches from the ceiling. This 4 inch minimum is important to keep alarms out of possible “dead air” spaces, because hot air is turbulent and may bounce so much it misses spots near a surface. Installing alarms near a window, door or fireplace is not recommended because drafts could detour smoke away from the unit. In rooms where the ceiling has an extremely high point, such as in vaulted ceilings, mount the alarm near the ceiling’s highest point. In all cases, smoke alarms should be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Smoke alarms are not designed to work in extreme heat or cold or in areas where smoke, humidity or dust are common. Thus, they are not recommended for unheated attics. Smoke alarms should not be installed in garages because of the extreme temperature changes and the fumes from engines causing nuisance alarms. Another great area of concern is the kitchen. There are invisible particles of combustion that are emitted from normal cooking (Food doesn’t even have to burn!) that may result in nuisance alarms. The National Fire Protection Association recommends that if you are going to put a smoke alarm within 20ft of cooking, it should either be photoelectric or have a silencing button. Putting an alarm near the bathroom where steam can enter the chamber can also cause unwanted alarms. If someone is smoking cigarettes in a room, normally the alarm will not respond unless there are many smokers in the room. When Do I Need to Change and Test My Batteries? There are two main ways that smoke alarms get their energy; by battery or electricity. Many of the new alarms have both. If they are “hardwired (electrical)” and the electricity is lost in the home, the battery will take over. For battery operated alarms, the easiest way to remember is to change the batteries when you change your clocks in the spring and fall. When the battery is almost out of energy, it begins to “chirp”. This is warning the battery is almost dead. It is recommended to test your smoke alarms once a month to make sure they are operating. Test the alarm by pushing the test button for 5 seconds and listening for the alarm. Do not use fire or real smoke to test them. This action can cause an unwanted fire or affect the sensor over time. Periodic cleaning is very important. Smoke alarms have small screens around the sensing chamber to keep small bugs and dust particles out. These can accumulate on the screen and slow air movement through the screens. Cleaning is easy; just vacuum around the outside of the alarm at least once a year. "Fire is one of the leading causes of unintentional injury or death in young children. New research shows that children are not waking up to the sound of smoke alarms, so parents need to be extra vigilant about having more than one alarm in the house to be sure the adults awaken and get kids to safety. There are ways to interconnect several fire alarms in the home." Remember, working smoke alarms alert people to fire and give them time to escape a situation where minutes can mean the difference between life and death.

Dripping water from faucet or toilet

The Facts on Leaks: The average household's leaks can account for more than 10,000 gallons of water wasted every year, or the amount of water needed to wash 270 loads of laundry. Household leaks can waste more than 1 trillion gallons annually nationwide. That's equal to the annual household water use of more than 11 million homes. Ten percent of homes have leaks that waste 90 gallons or more per day. Common types of leaks found in the home include worn toilet flappers, dripping faucets, and other leaking valves. All are easily correctable. Fixing easily corrected household water leaks can save homeowners about 10 percent on their water bills. Keep your home leak-free by repairing dripping faucets, toilet flappers, and showerheads. In most cases, fixture replacement parts don't require a major investment. One way to find out if you have a toilet leak is to place a drop of food coloring in the toilet tank. If the color shows up in the bowl within 15 minutes without flushing, you have a leak. Make sure to flush immediately after this experiment to avoid staining the tank. A leaky faucet that drips at the rate of one drip per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons per year. That's the amount of water needed to take more than 180 showers! Leaky faucets can be fixed by checking faucet washers and gaskets for wear and replacing them if necessary. If you are replacing a faucet, look for the WaterSense label. A showerhead leaking at 10 drips per minute wastes more than 500 gallons per year. That's the amount of water it takes to wash 60 loads of dishes in your dishwasher. If your toilet is leaking, the cause is often an old, faulty toilet flapper. Over time, this inexpensive rubber part decays, or minerals build up on it. It's usually best to replace the whole rubber flapper—a relatively easy repair

The latest projects I have done

I started a handyman service about a month ago.It takes alot of work advertising and just getting my name out there. Here is a few jobs that I have done in the last week or so.